Hillsboro Brewing Company: New Life for a Queen of the Driftless Stage
Driftless Area motorists traveling scenic County Road FF from Hillsboro to Wonewoc, have for years passed a huge brick edifice, once part of the thriving Wisconsin dairy industry. As one of those motorists, I would often ask myself, How is it that such a huge, magnificent building, looking so forlorn, can remain unused? When was it built? What was it like in its heyday? What caused its downfall? And always, I pondered, What might be that property’s highest and best use?
I am happy to report that now, the vision and hard work of Hillsboro entrepreneurs Snapper and Kim Verbsky have given that grand old lady renewed purpose and life. As the new home of Hillsboro Brewing Company, the former condensery links two of Wisconsin’s iconic industries: dairy and beer.
Sources of much of the historical information herein are from photographs proudly displayed in the Hillsboro Brewing Company, as well as interviews with Snapper Verbsky and other community members with personal knowledge of the building.
My first question was, “What is a condensery?” I learned that it is a plant that produces condensed, or evaporated milk, such as Carnation© or Pet Milk© condensed milk. (That bit of online research evoked strong memories of my mother’s ever-present can of Milnot© Condensed Milk in what she referred to as the “ice box.”)
The Valencia Condensed Milk Company began construction of a condensery in Hillsboro in 1914. Valencia quickly went bankrupt, and the building was foreclosed. It was purchased by a group of Hillsboro businessmen for $41,000. The Hillsboro group completed construction and opened the condensery in the fall of 1915.
The John F. Jelke Company purchased the building in 1929 and enlarged the plant, manufacturing under many private labels and shipping much product via the 4.8-mile-long Hillsboro and Northeastern Railroad, “the world’s shortest standard-gauge railroad” at the time.
Carnation Milk Company purchased the building in 1934. At its peak in the 1950s, it employed 60 people, ran 23 hours a day, and produced 360,000 pounds of milk a day. When Carnation ceased operations February 1, 1956, 20 employees lost their jobs. Six plant people and one field man were retained to operate the building as a warehouse for other Carnation facilities.
Long-time employee Bob Sherman, who worked at the plant from April 4, 1933 until 1960, started as a general laborer and working up to lab technician and field man. His memories of that time include the collapse of the second floor because too much milk was stored up there.
During the years from 1956 to 2018, the once-proud actress on the Hillsboro stage suffered the indignity of accepting minor roles for various neighbors. “It sat empty for quite a while,” noted Arda Kolowrat, whose (Hansbery) family purchased the building about 20 years ago for Hillsboro Cement Company.
However, as a talented trouper, she earned several parts befitting a talented veteran. The Kickapoo Oil Company and J.Lo.Ray Trucking operated out of the facility for several years in the 1960s, and CNC Liquidators used the building as a warehouse. The building “probably had a dozen different owners,” according to Mary Ennis, also of the Hillsboro Cement Company. “We had several different renters ourselves, added Ennis, including Organic Valley.” John Popejoy bought the property from us a few years ago with the intention of using it to fabricate millwork,” she added. Popejoy put a new roof on the building before selling it to Snapper and Kim Verbsky in 2018.
Rebirth of a Star
Snapper Verbsky is a contractor and developer with deep roots in Hillsboro. His high school record on the gridiron, mat, and on the track was "Grrrrrrreat!" according to the school’s Tiger mascot. Like so many other Driftless Area natives, Snapper chose to remain in his home town and make a difference.
Snapper and Kim met 23 years ago and have been married for 22 years. Together, they built and now manage Champion House, comprising four adult assisted living facilities that serve 14-15 residents.
The Verbskys opened Hillsboro Brewing Company at its original location in downtown Hillsboro in February of 2013 after extensive renovation of that building on the corner of Water and Mill. Brewing took place in Reedsburg at first, and later at a separate facility in Hillsboro. In 2015 Snapper started distributing beer by taking kegs to area bars in a minivan. He sold 500 “case equivalents” that year. By comparison, he now sells 15,000 case equivalents, with 130 “tap lines” in La Crosse and 65 in Madison. Hillsboro Brewing Company brews 19 varieties of beer, including my personal favorite, Joe’s Beer.
Joe’s Beer is the recipe of Snapper’s father, Joe Verbsky, who enjoyed brewing beer as a hobby. Speaking of his father, Snapper said, “He gave me the tools in life to do things like this (HBC). He was the biggest influence in my life.” Tragically, Joe Verbsky died in a car accident in 2012, at the age of 59.
I asked Snapper about the transformation of the former condensery into Hillsboro Brewing Company—a brewery, tap room, restaurant, and events venue. The building is huge: 28,000 square feet—almost half the size of a football field.
John Popejoy (the former owner) had replaced the roof, at a cost of $100,000. Snapper handled major repairs, including new electric, heating and air conditioning, and the sprinkler system. A total of 73 windows were replaced, and a new concrete floor covers the in-floor heating system. Fortunately, underground plumbing, consisting of steel pipes, was good, but clay sewer pipes outside had to be replaced and the parking lot paved. Naturally, the normal fixtures and facilities required for a restaurant and brewery were installed after the building was renovated.
The theme of HBC celebrates the heritage of the building and the City of Hillsboro. The restaurant/brew pub’s huge footprint provides ample room for guests to gather for group conversation or to play any of the games available. Stainless steel brewing tanks are a focal point of the bar area. Additional, larger tanks, for even greater brewing capacity, were installed over the Labor Day weekend.
Above the restaurant and pub is the events venue Willow+Oak for weddings and conventions, as well as smaller events, like company meetings and parties. Twenty weddings are scheduled for next year, and a half-dozen events are lined up for 2021, including the Lions District Convention, comprising the seven-county Driftless Area of Wisconsin.
As with any successful business, people are at the heart of Hillsboro Brewing Company. In addition to owners Kim and Snapper Verbsky, the management team includes Vice President of brewing operations Dave Dietz, Restaurant/Bar Manager Teresa Brickl, and Facilities Coordinator Taylor Larson. “We are set up to provide a good work environment, and we take care of our employees,” stated Snapper Verbsky.
Any entrepreneur might echo the operational challenges faced by HBC: controlling costs, making payroll, and staffing.
Snapper is confident that Hillsboro Brewing Company will be a tourism magnet, bringing people from as far away as Chicago to Hillsboro. He credits other young entrepreneurs with starting businesses to serve those tourists.
The Verbskys are applying to place the 105-year-old building on the state and national historical registry. “It would be the only building in Hillsboro to achieve that designation,” stated Verbsky. “This building deserves to be restored,” he added, “It has a whole new life and has already seen three wedding receptions and one marriage ceremony.”
On the web, visit Hillsboro Brewing Company, or on Facebook.
Author’s Note: This is the second in what I hope will become a series of articles about renewal projects throughout the Driftless Area. My hope is that these stories will inspire others to follow suit. Does your town in the Driftless Area have a story of renewal to share with the readership of Driftless Now.com? If so, please contact contributing writer Robert Potter at robertdaypotter@gmail.com.
